APPROACH: Follow the directions to the Rey Hut, then proceed towards Passo dell’Orso, following the old ski slopes until you reach the end of the old ski lift (a small building still existing). Head towards the ridge that leads to the north side of Grand’Hoche and traverse horizontally until the start of the climb.

GOULOTTE

• L1 – 70 m – 3 – Length on ice, often thin. It can be avoided by bypassing it on the right.

• L2 – 70 m – 45° – Snow slope.

• L3 – 55 m – 3 – Length on ice, belay on ice screws.

• L4 – 55 m – 3+ – Nice length on ice, belay on old ice screws and one 8mm bolt, can be protected with medium-sized cams.

• L5 – 120 m – 45° – Snow slope, passing between two characteristic walls.

• L6 – 60 m – M5 expo – Key pitch, very beautiful length, protections not so obvious in case of little snow and ice, belay at the exit, on cams.

• L7 – 300 m – 45/50° – Snow slope with some easy steps.

• L8 – 200 m – 45° – Snow slope, cornice passage, and exit just below the summit.

DESCENT: From the summit, descend to Passo dell’Orso. From there, follow the summer trail back to the hut. Alternatively, it is possible to descend the channel of the pass and find a belay for rappelling down to overcome the final step.

NOTES: Beautiful alpine climb in a wild setting, not to be underestimated due to the overall commitment. Should be tackled with the proper snow conditions and taking into account the presence of the summit cornice, which can sometimes be quite large.